Rock Canyon – Bug Barn Dance Wall – Redneck Genocide - 5.11b - ***

Rock Canyon – Bug Barn Dance Wall – Redneck Genocide - 5.11b - ***

This is one of my favorite routes in Rock Canyon and I have done it many times.  It is one of the longer routes and feature two crux sections on a vertical wall. This is a great summer morning crag to be at but can be hot in the afternoons as it is west facing. I think the 5.11b is an accurate grade for this climb.

The start is pretty straight forward through the first 2-3 bolts. The first crux, which I think is harder of the two, starts there after. I move through the first crux approaching it from the right, traversing to the left. It gets very thin at this first crux look to use what crimpy edges you can find relying on the grippy limestone. It looks impossible but is very achievable .  After the first crux utilize what ever rests you can get to shake out and prepare for the second crux and final push to the chains.

For the second crux, I approach it from the left and move to the right and then immediately after finish to the chains moving in from the right. Clipping into the chains will come with a sigh of relief.

Mountain Project - Redneck Genocide

Rockclimbing.com - Redneck Genocide

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Roller Coaster – 5.9 **

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Roller Coaster – 5.9 **

Roller Coaster the first route on the left of the Bath Rock west wall and is 7 bolts to chain anchors. The route is relativity short which brings down it star rating for me and I thought that its grade was a little weak and should go 5.8 at best. The climbing is really straight forward with plenty of holds where ever you look.  There is a bolt or two that I used longer runners on to prevent rope drag, bolt number 2 was one of those (I think).

This is a perfect route to do for first time leaders. I got my buddy to lead it who hadn’t climbed for three years due to climbing mishap. This is a decent warm-up but is not great by any stretch of the imagination.

Mountain Project - Roller Coaster

Rockclimbing.com - Roller Coaster

City of Rocks – Window Rock East – Destroy All Planets – 5.10a R **

City of Rocks – Window Rock East – Destroy All Planets – 5.10a R **

This is the second route/crack in on the east side of Window Rock.  I don’t completely agree with the grade as only the first 20 feet make it 5.10 and the remainder 60 meters go at about the 5.6 range. I would think that a V4, 5.6 grade would be more appropriate. And as far as the R rating is concerned the top section is too easy to be scary and the flaring crack really didn’t bother me. I wouldn’t go no more than PG at worst.

To start the climb, look for the lone bolt on the blank bottom section leading up to the beginning of the crack. Due to the lack of the feature with the start I may be tempting to grab the bolt, please be careful not to lose a finger. Once you get to the crack you will be able to cruise. I used a full rack on the climb and had little problem plunging gear into the granite. That altitude that is attained make the climb worth its two stars, however, its lack of difficulty prevents it from getting a higher star rating.

Build anchors at the top. Move to the north end of the rock for a rap station.

Mountain Project - Destroy All Planets

Matt using 'Coffee and Cornflakes' to climb this rock

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

This short but rather bouldery route is a great warm-up for some of the harder stuff on the west wall. The start is some what of a run out to the first bolt but is by far the easiest section of the climb. My friend when he led the route placed two pieces of pro before the first bolt. He stuck one in the pig snout at the bottom right of the route and one right before the route turns vertical.

The crux is at the second bolt. A well timed rest after the second bolt will go long way in red pointing the C&C. Be careful not to fall after the second bolt with excessive line out as you could slam into the lower section of the climb. After the second bolt the sequence I used was a big right hand move followed by moving to the left for everything after that to the finish. Some say it is pumpy but I thought it was rather enjoyable with good hold and easy to read sequences. 3 bolts to chains.

City of Rocks – Bath Rock – Private Idaho – 5.9 ****

City of Rocks – Bath Rock – Private Idaho – 5.9 ****

This was a very enjoyable climb. I believe I used a rack up to #2.5 but a #3 would have been perfect to protect the slot towards the top. I used just nuts on the bottom half and cams through the second half. The climb was just challenging enough to make it interesting. Note that a little stemming goes a long way on this route.

Towards the top there is bulge to either go around to the left, over it, or straight up through the slot. The bulge is the crux. I was told that #3 would protect the slot perfect. If you choose to climb straight up the slot be prepared for some good old butt scumming to get through it and a possible butt cramp or too. I choose to go left which is supposedly a little easier. I protect the left of the bulge with a blue #0 and a mid size nut towards the top. Chains at the top.

City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

 City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

This is a decent climb with a little altitude. I was able to onsight this route without much problem. I used small to medium rack full of nuts and cams up to #3.5. I probable took more gear than what I needed but considering the length and my innate desire to over protect I was pretty weighed down.

For me the crux was the first little bulge on the first section of rock. I used long runner until finishing the traverse. The traverse has a nice handle bar (some call this the horizontal crack) which allows for a good rest before starting the main up the main crack. I stuck a cam in the handle bar, #2, I think.

The main crack/dihedral is the best part of the climb requires a little stemming. I cruised right through it. When the crack split I continued straight up and onto the top face section. The top section with its ‘run out’ is really not that bad as it very easy climbing. Look for the chains at the very top of the rock.

There is a bolt somewhere on the climb but I don’t know where and obviously never saw a need to use it. From what I hear the bolt really increases your rope drag. Batwings could be a better route if it was a little more difficult although it was very enjoyable ascending so high with just a single pitch. Belay your partner up and make sure you have two ropes to rap with.