Thursday, August 27, 2009

American Fork - Division Wall - Les is More

American Fork - Division Wall - Les is More 5.10a **

This is the rout just to the right of the big dihedral. The route starts on the face an with the first bolt being just below a little edge. The start is very easy with killer pocket every where. The bulge is where the route start to become difficult (if you call 10a difficult) The bulge is probable the crux with two, two finger pockets to a hard to see bucket on the top of it.

On the top half, move towards the dihedral and stem off the left call. To make Les is More feel like an 11 try to do the top section without stem the left wall. Finish the top by using the sweaty side pull and clip into the asymmetrical chains.

Not my favorite climb and is in a very busy section of AF. West facing so it is great for a morning session.

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