American Fork - Division Wall - Black Hole

American Fork - Division Wall - Black Hole 10a *

Black Hole is the 5 bolt climb just to the right of the off-width crack. The first bolt starts just about the second shelf. Use a long runner or a doubled-up draw on the first bolt to prevent your rope from drag on the second shelf. The climb is fairly straight forwarded. The crux is before the third bolt and require a reach. Instead of going to the obvious pocket high to the left, I move through the crux by sticking my right foot out wide right as high as I can and move for a reach with my right hand to a hidden horizontal and very positive pocket on the right. The crux move is a complete stretch but the hidden move on the right is shorter than the obvious pocket on the right.

After the 3rd bolt, you can pretty much just cruise to the chains with big holds all the way. Clip the left most chains. This is a good warm-up but not a classic AF climb and may be over rate at 5.10a. This climb see a lot of traffic and can be difficult to get on because the prime east facing cliff is perfect for hot summer afternoons. The popularity and low rating of the climb means many of the holds are very greasy, deceasing my scoring of the climb as only one star.

Rockclimbing.com - Black Hole
Mountain Project - Black Hole