City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Carol's Crack (aka Double Crack)

City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Carol's Crack (aka Double Crack) - 5.8 ****

This would list in the top group of my favorite climbs in the City of Rocks. Carol's Crack was my second lead on trad, obviously making this a good climb for those just starting to ply their trade in the art of traditional climbing. During the summer heat this is a great climb for the morning as it face the west. Carol's Crack on the Decadent Wall is made obvious by the two parallel lines about one foot a part for the upper half of the climb.

Start in the big crack on the bottom half of the crack. For this section I place a couple of large hexes and did some creative climbing, jumping around from one side to the other. the double crack starts just above the ramp. For the double cracks I used only small nuts and friends up to a 2.5. due to the double cracks finding a spot to jam or to place a cam is easy. If one doesn't work try the other.  A rack of small sizes is really all that you need. At the top be sure to take some long runner to build an anchor as there are not any any hard ware at the top. There are two ways down either walk off to the north or look to the anchors just to the south of where you topped. One 60 meter rope will get you down with a little down climbing.

Great climb that could only be made better if the top section was a little longer.

Mountain Project - Carol's Crack
Rockclimbing.com - Carol's Crack