City of Rocks - Elephant Rock - Columbian Crack - 5.7 *****
Columbian Crack is another favorite climb at the city. Situated on the east side of the elephant rock on what used to be unclimbable private property. The Columbian Crack is about 50 feet to the left of Rye Crisp behind a large boulder. This climb features morning sun and evening shade.
This climb starts in a chimney behind the larger boulder. You are unprotected until you get to the top of the boulder when you have start plugging in pieces. I have seen the recommendation of throwing a rope over the boulder to top rope it but this is really not necessary as it is a fairly simple start. If you can't climb the chimney without being protected, trad climbing may not be for you.
Through the main part of the crack I used my left hand in the crack and the right hand out on the face utilizing the many feature. Although with Columbian Crack jamming is almost optional as you can start on the face most of the way to the top. We climbed this route with just small gear but a rack including 3's and 4's is nice. Larger gear would be required for the top section of the climb if you choose not to use the bolts on face. The top section forces you out to the face were delicate face work and smearing is essential. An individual who I saw free climb this route indicated that for him the top section was a little dicey as he no longer had the assurance of rock solid jams that he could plunge in hand and arms into making it a little heady for him.
There is a bolt at the top (I think) but we used slings and built anchors for a little bit of added security.
The with a climb being in the 100' range two ropes would be required for to rappel off it. However, most people that I have seen climbing Elephant Rock utilize the walk-off to the south.
Mountian Project - Columbian Crack
Rockclimbing.com - Columbian Crack
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