Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Snow Canyon State Park – Aftershock Wall – Aftershock – 11.b *****

Snow Canyon State Park – Aftershock Wall – Aftershock – 11.b *****

Aftershock is one of my all time favorite southern Utah climbs. This is a four pitch climb but most individuals do only the first 3 pitches.

Start the climb from the rock platform just below and left of the flake.

Pitch 1: begin the climbing moving up the slab, traversing to the right with static friction moves. The last part of the slab traverse where you transition to just below the flake is the hardest move of the first pitch. I have fallen here several times. Once to the flake layback and ascend it. I have always run out the last section of the flake but for those more timid a medium size cam or nut may be nice. The first chains are at the top of the flake.

Pitch 2: This pitch is pretty straight forward and in my opinion is the hardest of all three pitches. I feel that this pitch goes somewhere in the range of 5.11a/b. The crux is at the second to last bolt before the cave. Moving into the second to last bolt, look for a couple of diagonal rails that requiring a series of layback moves. I usually fail trying to click that second to last bolt. For those seeking the red point I would recommend skipping the second to last bolt and move right to the last on before.

Pitch 3: This is the glory pitch. Start in the cave and move out to the face. Moving out of the cave used to be easier until my partner busted ‘handle bar’ hold almost ten years ago. You’ll love the exposure of this pitch.

Pitch 4: Don’t know, haven’t done it yet.

Rappel of the chains at the top of pitch 3 to get to the cave. From the cave, lower your partner to the ground and then rap to a set of chains directly under the cave to get to the ground.


Mountain Project - Aftershock 
Rockclimbing.com - Aftershock

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