Sunday, October 24, 2010

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

This short but rather bouldery route is a great warm-up for some of the harder stuff on the west wall. The start is some what of a run out to the first bolt but is by far the easiest section of the climb. My friend when he led the route placed two pieces of pro before the first bolt. He stuck one in the pig snout at the bottom right of the route and one right before the route turns vertical.

The crux is at the second bolt. A well timed rest after the second bolt will go long way in red pointing the C&C. Be careful not to fall after the second bolt with excessive line out as you could slam into the lower section of the climb. After the second bolt the sequence I used was a big right hand move followed by moving to the left for everything after that to the finish. Some say it is pumpy but I thought it was rather enjoyable with good hold and easy to read sequences. 3 bolts to chains.

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