City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

 City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

This is a decent climb with a little altitude. I was able to onsight this route without much problem. I used small to medium rack full of nuts and cams up to #3.5. I probable took more gear than what I needed but considering the length and my innate desire to over protect I was pretty weighed down.

For me the crux was the first little bulge on the first section of rock. I used long runner until finishing the traverse. The traverse has a nice handle bar (some call this the horizontal crack) which allows for a good rest before starting the main up the main crack. I stuck a cam in the handle bar, #2, I think.

The main crack/dihedral is the best part of the climb requires a little stemming. I cruised right through it. When the crack split I continued straight up and onto the top face section. The top section with its ‘run out’ is really not that bad as it very easy climbing. Look for the chains at the very top of the rock.

There is a bolt somewhere on the climb but I don’t know where and obviously never saw a need to use it. From what I hear the bolt really increases your rope drag. Batwings could be a better route if it was a little more difficult although it was very enjoyable ascending so high with just a single pitch. Belay your partner up and make sure you have two ropes to rap with.