Rock Canyon – Bug Barn Dance Wall – Redneck Genocide - 5.11b - ***
This is one of my favorite routes in Rock Canyon and I have done it many times. It is one of the longer routes and feature two crux sections on a vertical wall. This is a great summer morning crag to be at but can be hot in the afternoons as it is west facing. I think the 5.11b is an accurate grade for this climb.
The start is pretty straight forward through the first 2-3 bolts. The first crux, which I think is harder of the two, starts there after. I move through the first crux approaching it from the right, traversing to the left. It gets very thin at this first crux look to use what crimpy edges you can find relying on the grippy limestone. It looks impossible but is very achievable . After the first crux utilize what ever rests you can get to shake out and prepare for the second crux and final push to the chains.
For the second crux, I approach it from the left and move to the right and then immediately after finish to the chains moving in from the right. Clipping into the chains will come with a sigh of relief.
Posts
0 comments:
Post a Comment