Vertical Country Rock Climbing

Rock Canyon – Bug Barn Dance Wall – Redneck Genocide - 5.11b - ***

2010-11-14T16:28:00.000-07:00

Rock Canyon – Bug Barn Dance Wall – Redneck Genocide - 5.11b - ***

This is one of my favorite routes in Rock Canyon and I have done it many times. It is one of the longer routes and feature two crux sections on a vertical wall. This is a great summer morning crag to be at but can be hot in the afternoons as it is west facing. I think the 5.11b is an accurate grade for this climb.

The start is pretty straight forward through the first 2-3 bolts. The first crux, which I think is harder of the two, starts there after. I move through the first crux approaching it from the right, traversing to the left. It gets very thin at this first crux look to use what crimpy edges you can find relying on the grippy limestone. It looks impossible but is very achievable . After the first crux utilize what ever rests you can get to shake out and prepare for the second crux and final push to the chains.

For the second crux, I approach it from the left and move to the right and then immediately after finish to the chains moving in from the right. Clipping into the chains will come with a sigh of relief.

Mountain Project - Redneck Genocide

Rockclimbing.com - Redneck Genocide

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Roller Coaster – 5.9 **

2010-11-14T12:00:00.001-07:00

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Roller Coaster – 5.9 **

Roller Coaster the first route on the left of the Bath Rock west wall and is 7 bolts to chain anchors. The route is relativity short which brings down it star rating for me and I thought that its grade was a little weak and should go 5.8 at best. The climbing is really straight forward with plenty of holds where ever you look. There is a bolt or two that I used longer runners on to prevent rope drag, bolt number 2 was one of those (I think).

This is a perfect route to do for first time leaders. I got my buddy to lead it who hadn’t climbed for three years due to climbing mishap. This is a decent warm-up but is not great by any stretch of the imagination.

Mountain Project - Roller Coaster

Rockclimbing.com - Roller Coaster

City of Rocks – Window Rock East – Destroy All Planets – 5.10a R **

2010-11-13T22:54:00.002-07:00

City of Rocks – Window Rock East – Destroy All Planets – 5.10a R **

This is the second route/crack in on the east side of Window Rock. I don’t completely agree with the grade as only the first 20 feet make it 5.10 and the remainder 60 meters go at about the 5.6 range. I would think that a V4, 5.6 grade would be more appropriate. And as far as the R rating is concerned the top section is too easy to be scary and the flaring crack really didn’t bother me. I wouldn’t go no more than PG at worst.

To start the climb, look for the lone bolt on the blank bottom section leading up to the beginning of the crack. Due to the lack of the feature with the start I may be tempting to grab the bolt, please be careful not to lose a finger. Once you get to the crack you will be able to cruise. I used a full rack on the climb and had little problem plunging gear into the granite. That altitude that is attained make the climb worth its two stars, however, its lack of difficulty prevents it from getting a higher star rating.

Build anchors at the top. Move to the north end of the rock for a rap station.

Mountain Project - Destroy All Planets

Matt using 'Coffee and Cornflakes' to climb this rock

2010-10-27T21:29:00.001-06:00

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

2010-10-24T22:05:00.000-06:00

City of Rocks – Bath Rock West – Coffee and Cornflakes – 5.10a ***

This short but rather bouldery route is a great warm-up for some of the harder stuff on the west wall. The start is some what of a run out to the first bolt but is by far the easiest section of the climb. My friend when he led the route placed two pieces of pro before the first bolt. He stuck one in the pig snout at the bottom right of the route and one right before the route turns vertical.

The crux is at the second bolt. A well timed rest after the second bolt will go long way in red pointing the C&C. Be careful not to fall after the second bolt with excessive line out as you could slam into the lower section of the climb. After the second bolt the sequence I used was a big right hand move followed by moving to the left for everything after that to the finish. Some say it is pumpy but I thought it was rather enjoyable with good hold and easy to read sequences. 3 bolts to chains.

City of Rocks – Bath Rock – Private Idaho – 5.9 ****

2010-10-21T21:46:00.000-06:00

City of Rocks – Bath Rock – Private Idaho – 5.9 ****

This was a very enjoyable climb. I believe I used a rack up to #2.5 but a #3 would have been perfect to protect the slot towards the top. I used just nuts on the bottom half and cams through the second half. The climb was just challenging enough to make it interesting. Note that a little stemming goes a long way on this route.

Towards the top there is bulge to either go around to the left, over it, or straight up through the slot. The bulge is the crux. I was told that #3 would protect the slot perfect. If you choose to climb straight up the slot be prepared for some good old butt scumming to get through it and a possible butt cramp or too. I choose to go left which is supposedly a little easier. I protect the left of the bulge with a blue #0 and a mid size nut towards the top. Chains at the top.

City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

2010-10-20T20:27:00.000-06:00

City of Rocks – Parking Lot Rock – Batwings – 5.8 ***

This is a decent climb with a little altitude. I was able to onsight this route without much problem. I used small to medium rack full of nuts and cams up to #3.5. I probable took more gear than what I needed but considering the length and my innate desire to over protect I was pretty weighed down.

For me the crux was the first little bulge on the first section of rock. I used long runner until finishing the traverse. The traverse has a nice handle bar (some call this the horizontal crack) which allows for a good rest before starting the main up the main crack. I stuck a cam in the handle bar, #2, I think.

The main crack/dihedral is the best part of the climb requires a little stemming. I cruised right through it. When the crack split I continued straight up and onto the top face section. The top section with its ‘run out’ is really not that bad as it very easy climbing. Look for the chains at the very top of the rock.

There is a bolt somewhere on the climb but I don’t know where and obviously never saw a need to use it. From what I hear the bolt really increases your rope drag. Batwings could be a better route if it was a little more difficult although it was very enjoyable ascending so high with just a single pitch. Belay your partner up and make sure you have two ropes to rap with.

Rock Canyon - Ed and Terry Wall - Main Crack - 5.7 - ***

2010-04-24T23:32:00.002-06:00

Rock Canyon - Ed and Terry Wall - Main Crack - 5.7 - ***

This is the easily viewable crack from the parking lot on the middle section of the Ed and Terry wall.
Approach the crack by heading up to the top of the Red Slab and then working your way up a forth class scramble to the top. There may or may not be a hand line to follow to the top. Climbers of the Ed and Terry wall must be very careful as it is easy to send rocks down on the climbers of the Red Slab.

I have done this as a one pitch climb with a 60m rope. The rope will not quite reach the bottom when being lowered and will require a little down climbing but is not too difficult.

A standard rack is somewhat useless as this climb eats up 2’s and 3’s. When climbing start by using what small gear you can and save the 2’s and 3’s for the second half of the climb.

The crux is just before the overhang. Start the crux on the right side of the crack and then move to the block on the left side. Look for a key hold at the peak of the overhang on the right side of the crack.

The second half of the climb cruises and has plenty of features on the face. There are chains at the top.

Snow Canyon State Park – Circus Wall – Barbarian – 5.6 **

2010-04-24T19:46:00.001-06:00

Snow Canyon State Park – Circus Wall – Barbarian – 5.6 **

Note: If you have ever read the description from Todd Goss’s south west Utah climbing guide of Barbarian and actually climbed it, you will wonder if Todd has ever actually climbed it as his description does not match the actual climb.

Barbarian is situated to the far left of the belay deck that is shared with Pygmy Alien. Next to the arête look for the obvious crack that start the first pitch. If you chose to protect along the cracks you will need medium to larger gear.

Pitch 1: The climb starts with a couple of pins on the face and then transitions into the main crack. I have seen other climbers run the crack out as the climbing is really not that hard. I thought that this section easier than 5.6. There might have been one pin above the crack before the anchors but I do not remember.

Pitch 2: It appears there have been some modifications to the second pitch. Three to four feet to the left of were the route on the actual arête itself is a full set of bolt running the length of the pitch. I do not know if this was done to be apart of Barbarian or not but if you do not like the space in between pins (I counted three) than you can easy clip into these new bolts. If you stay on route (the face not the arête) you will move to a crack to the right on the second half of this pitch. At the top you will reach a large ledge with tree and 2 sets of anchors. This is my favorite pitch as the exposure on the arête is awesome and provides a great view of the canyon.

Pitch 3: Start behind the tree on the ledge and move up the face with bolts to the top of the canyon.

Descent: ~~Walk-off~~ down-climb to the north. Due to the amount of varnish and chickenheads on the cliff, especially the top two pitches, rappelling and pulling a rope down over it may not be the wisest decision and could result in a hung-up rope. Walking-off to the north is it own adventure and should be consider 5th class. There were a few sections of the walk-off where I wish I was roped up.

As far as the R rating is concerned I don’t really agree. You can cheat over to the bolts on the left on the second pitch and you can place plenty of slings on chicken heads if you wanted to. The third pitch is complete bolted. For me, the thing that made the climb the dangerous was the walk-off to the north.

Mountain Project

Snow Canyon State Park – Aftershock Wall – Aftershock – 11.b *****

2010-03-30T20:58:00.003-06:00

Snow Canyon State Park – Aftershock Wall – Aftershock – 11.b *****

Aftershock is one of my all time favorite southern Utah climbs. This is a four pitch climb but most individuals do only the first 3 pitches.

Start the climb from the rock platform just below and left of the flake.

Pitch 1: begin the climbing moving up the slab, traversing to the right with static friction moves. The last part of the slab traverse where you transition to just below the flake is the hardest move of the first pitch. I have fallen here several times. Once to the flake layback and ascend it. I have always run out the last section of the flake but for those more timid a medium size cam or nut may be nice. The first chains are at the top of the flake.

Pitch 2: This pitch is pretty straight forward and in my opinion is the hardest of all three pitches. I feel that this pitch goes somewhere in the range of 5.11a/b. The crux is at the second to last bolt before the cave. Moving into the second to last bolt, look for a couple of diagonal rails that requiring a series of layback moves. I usually fail trying to click that second to last bolt. For those seeking the red point I would recommend skipping the second to last bolt and move right to the last on before.

Pitch 3: This is the glory pitch. Start in the cave and move out to the face. Moving out of the cave used to be easier until my partner busted ‘handle bar’ hold almost ten years ago. You’ll love the exposure of this pitch.

Pitch 4: Don’t know, haven’t done it yet.

Rappel of the chains at the top of pitch 3 to get to the cave. From the cave, lower your partner to the ground and then rap to a set of chains directly under the cave to get to the ground.

Mountain Project - Aftershock
Rockclimbing.com - Aftershock

City of Rocks - Elephant Rock – Wheat Thin - 5.7 *****

2010-03-28T21:03:00.002-06:00

City of Rocks - Elephant Rock – Wheat Thin - 5.7 *****

On the north east corner of the elephant rock lays a single thin flake called Wheat
Thin. If you are looking for classics in City of Rocks, this has to be one of them! It is very fun with great views of the city. Rated at 5.7, I thought that is was slightly easier than your typical “seven”. I even saw one individual free solo the route so it is definitely achievable.

We started the climb by racking up at the bottom and then moving up to as high as we could scramble to belay from there. The start is very simple and straight forward. Most of the crack flake can be climbed on the face with a transition to the crack towards the top. We climbed the crack using a using our small pro with a full set of nuts and cams up to 3. I really did not jam much on this climb.

Walk-off the south side or use two ropes to descend.

Mountain Project - Elephant Rock

Rockclimbing.com - Elephant Rock

City of Rocks Scenery

2010-03-14T16:03:00.002-06:00

City of Rocks - Elephant Rock - Columbian Crack

2010-01-17T17:05:00.001-07:00

City of Rocks - Elephant Rock - Columbian Crack - 5.7 *****

Columbian Crack is another favorite climb at the city. Situated on the east side of the elephant rock on what used to be unclimbable private property. The Columbian Crack is about 50 feet to the left of Rye Crisp behind a large boulder. This climb features morning sun and evening shade.

This climb starts in a chimney behind the larger boulder. You are unprotected until you get to the top of the boulder when you have start plugging in pieces. I have seen the recommendation of throwing a rope over the boulder to top rope it but this is really not necessary as it is a fairly simple start. If you can't climb the chimney without being protected, trad climbing may not be for you.

Through the main part of the crack I used my left hand in the crack and the right hand out on the face utilizing the many feature. Although with Columbian Crack jamming is almost optional as you can start on the face most of the way to the top. We climbed this route with just small gear but a rack including 3's and 4's is nice. Larger gear would be required for the top section of the climb if you choose not to use the bolts on face. The top section forces you out to the face were delicate face work and smearing is essential. An individual who I saw free climb this route indicated that for him the top section was a little dicey as he no longer had the assurance of rock solid jams that he could plunge in hand and arms into making it a little heady for him.

There is a bolt at the top (I think) but we used slings and built anchors for a little bit of added security.

The with a climb being in the 100' range two ropes would be required for to rappel off it. However, most people that I have seen climbing Elephant Rock utilize the walk-off to the south.

Mountian Project - Columbian Crack
Rockclimbing.com - Columbian Crack

City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Twilight

2010-01-03T20:37:00.002-07:00

City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Twilight - 5.6 **

Not a classic but a good route for a beginner. This was on of the first trad routes that a friend and I climbed.

Twilight the is the first climb just to the left of Carol's Crack. It is a single pitch, approximately 70 feet of 5.6 climbing the crossing over from one crack to another. Not necessary the purest line you will find in the City. The climbing is very straight forward and like Carol's the upper section is the better portion of the climb. I did very little jamming pretty much stayed out on the face. Towards the top it became very easy to run it out a bit.

Take gear up to build anchors for belay. There are two ways down either walk off to the north or look to the anchors just to the south of where you topped. One 60 meter rope will get you down with a little down climbing.

Mountain Project - Twilight
Rockclimbing.com - Twilight

City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Carol's Crack (aka Double Crack)

2009-12-28T21:33:00.003-07:00

City of Rocks - The Breadloaves - Decadent wall - Carol's Crack (aka Double Crack) - 5.8 ****

This would list in the top group of my favorite climbs in the City of Rocks. Carol's Crack was my second lead on trad, obviously making this a good climb for those just starting to ply their trade in the art of traditional climbing. During the summer heat this is a great climb for the morning as it face the west. Carol's Crack on the Decadent Wall is made obvious by the two parallel lines about one foot a part for the upper half of the climb.

Start in the big crack on the bottom half of the crack. For this section I place a couple of large hexes and did some creative climbing, jumping around from one side to the other. the double crack starts just above the ramp. For the double cracks I used only small nuts and friends up to a 2.5. due to the double cracks finding a spot to jam or to place a cam is easy. If one doesn't work try the other. A rack of small sizes is really all that you need. At the top be sure to take some long runner to build an anchor as there are not any any hard ware at the top. There are two ways down either walk off to the north or look to the anchors just to the south of where you topped. One 60 meter rope will get you down with a little down climbing.

Great climb that could only be made better if the top section was a little longer.

Mountain Project - Carol's Crack
Rockclimbing.com - Carol's Crack

American Fork - The Membrane - Caress of Steel

2009-09-12T22:48:00.002-06:00

American Fork - The Membrane - Caress of Steel - 10a ****

Caress of Steel is a slightly over hanging 7 bolt climb on the very left of the Membrane alcove. You will the Membrane wall 1 mile east of the American Fork visitor center on the south side of the river. Look for the log to cross over to the obvious wall. Caress of Steel is polished and greasy but not as bad as some of the other routes that you will find in the canyon. Many people use this as a warm up for other hard climb at this wall. The easy access to the Membrane wall make this a very popular spot and it is rare to find a weekend where someone is no there at the wall.

The route is very straight forward with good spacing between the bolts. This is a definite jug haul with pretty much a good pocket at every place you would need one. Some of the moves require a reach but that is compensated by the bucket to hang on to. There doesn't appear to be a particular crux as the climb is very consistent from beginning to the end making this one of my favorite moderates in the canyon.

Mountain Project - Caress of Steel
Rockclimbing.com - Caress of Steel

American Fork - Juniper Wall - Blood on the Rocks

2009-09-12T17:55:00.000-06:00

American Fork - Juniper Wall - Blood on the Rocks - 10b ***

This a four bolt climb just to the right of the large "S" crack. Taking a fall on this route and cause little damage, which is probably the reason for the name. This route uses a full mix of sport and crack climbing technique. Even though it is a crack, it can be easily climb with out any jams. Big moves are required to get to the bolts and requires some commitment but is very fun. Plenty of good rests along the crack to make your red point.

Blood on the Rocks has seemingly two cruxes, one after the third bolt and and the second at the chains. However cruxes may be different for everyone depending on height and ape index.

Clipping the anchors is rather difficult. It would appear that the easiest way to clip the anchors would be from the large ledge right below the chains but a lack of good feet makes this a very difficult task. The two options for clipping the chains are either high to the right or high to the left while leaning in for the reach. My partner was able to clip from the high left and I was able to clip from the high right. However, either option does put a lot of rope between you and the fourth bolt. Trying to clip from the high right does make for a very exposed traverse across the face definitely adds to the excitement of the climb.

Mountain Project - Blood on the Rocks

Rockclimbing.com - Blood on the Rocks

American Fork - Division Wall - Black Hole

2009-09-01T21:35:00.001-06:00

American Fork - Division Wall - Black Hole 10a *

Black Hole is the 5 bolt climb just to the right of the off-width crack. The first bolt starts just about the second shelf. Use a long runner or a doubled-up draw on the first bolt to prevent your rope from drag on the second shelf. The climb is fairly straight forwarded. The crux is before the third bolt and require a reach. Instead of going to the obvious pocket high to the left, I move through the crux by sticking my right foot out wide right as high as I can and move for a reach with my right hand to a hidden horizontal and very positive pocket on the right. The crux move is a complete stretch but the hidden move on the right is shorter than the obvious pocket on the right.

After the 3rd bolt, you can pretty much just cruise to the chains with big holds all the way. Clip the left most chains. This is a good warm-up but not a classic AF climb and may be over rate at 5.10a. This climb see a lot of traffic and can be difficult to get on because the prime east facing cliff is perfect for hot summer afternoons. The popularity and low rating of the climb means many of the holds are very greasy, deceasing my scoring of the climb as only one star.

Rockclimbing.com - Black Hole
Mountain Project - Black Hole

American Fork - Division Wall - Les is More

2009-08-27T21:53:00.000-06:00

American Fork - Division Wall - Les is More 5.10a **

This is the rout just to the right of the big dihedral. The route starts on the face an with the first bolt being just below a little edge. The start is very easy with killer pocket every where. The bulge is where the route start to become difficult (if you call 10a difficult) The bulge is probable the crux with two, two finger pockets to a hard to see bucket on the top of it.

On the top half, move towards the dihedral and stem off the left call. To make Les is More feel like an 11 try to do the top section without stem the left wall. Finish the top by using the sweaty side pull and clip into the asymmetrical chains.

Not my favorite climb and is in a very busy section of AF. West facing so it is great for a morning session.

American Fork - Escape Buttress - Steel Graffiti

2009-06-07T12:37:00.000-06:00

American Fork - Escape Buttress - Steel Graffiti 10b *****

This is the climb to the left of the Awaking in the middle of the wall that goes to the highest set of chains. You will need a 60 meter rope or will need to be lowered to a lower set of chains on a off to the left on Twist and Shout. Plan on have enough quick draws to get to the top.

Steel Graffiti is sustained climbing top to bottom. However, the first 30 feet definitely has the hardest moves and then it become slightly easier after you get over the bulge and can easy rest without hands. This is a good like if you are working on your endurance on Easy/moderates.

This is definitely a fun moderate in AF canyon.

American Fork - Escape Buttress - Awaking

2009-06-06T08:49:00.000-06:00

American Fork - Escape Buttress - Awaking 10a *****

This is the obvious line just left of the soft dihedral/crack. This climb require a 60 meter rope but if you do not have such a length of rope you could easy be lowered to a second set of lower chains of a route off to the left of Awaking off of a lead run.

Awaking is a fun sustained route. The exposure is great and you can get a view of the canyon from the top. The length of the route make it great for endurance training.

The crux of the route is the first few move. The start appears to move right up the face but you need to stay to the right on the slight arete edge and work your self up then move left to the obvious shelf below the first bolt. At after getting over the bulge the climbing becomes easy with jugs every where you look.

Insurance Blues

2009-02-07T13:42:00.000-07:00

So, I have taken a few years off from rock climbing but I am aching to get back into it. The last 3 years I went back to school to get my MBA degree. I finished school this past year and have gotten a good job as a marketing manager for a company in Utah.

Unfortunately, the real world and my desire to climb have started to collide. Now that I have a family and a real job I decided it would be wise to establish some life insurance if (God forbid) something should happen to me. While starting the application process I learn that rock climb is consider a high risk activity and that I need to fill out a form so that my insurance company can evaluate my risk potential.

I can't help to think that this is just another way for the insurance company to stick it to me. When I think about rock climbing and the benefits that come with being physically fit, I have to believe that more people die on a daily basis from obesity than from rock climbing.

Copyright

2009-02-02T19:20:00.000-07:00

Copyright
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Disclaimer

2009-02-02T19:11:00.000-07:00

Disclaimer

This site is provided by VerticalCountry.com on an "as is" basis. VerticalCountry.com makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, as to the operation of the site, the information, content, materials, or products included on this site. This web site contains compilations of verified and unverified climbing route information gathered from many different sources. Although some of this information is intended to assist climbers in locating and following climbing routes, it is neither represented nor guaranteed to be accurate or complete. VerticalCountry.com to the full extent permissible by applicable law, disclaims all warranties, express or implied, including but not limited to, implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. VerticalCountry.com will not be liable for any damages of any kind arising from the use of this site, including but not limited to direct, indirect, incidental punitive, and consequential damages. Those who use this information, and climb, do so at their own risk.